Image: The popular chicken and mushroom rock formation during our third stop.
Highlights
– Useful information in planning your adventure into the White Desert of Egypt.
Time of Visit: November 2025
Duration of Visit: One NIght
Description
The White Desert is a beautiful expansive land about six hours drive from Cairo. This special place got its name because of the chalk and limestone formations that dominate the area. The White Desert was once an ancient sea that was uplifted because of tectonic movement millions of years ago. These allowed the chalk and limestone deposits to be sculpted by nature’s erosive power (primarily wind and sand carried by the wind).
Over millions of more years, nature shaped the soft chalk and limestone into unique and abstract rock formations. These rock formations majestically stand out against the desert landscape. It is a place like no other.
Overshadowed by the White Desert’s prominence is the Black Desert. The Black Desert holds its own natural beauty even though it does not have any rock formations. This is where most tourists spend the night under the stars who visit the area for just an overnight trip.
Both the White and Black Desert provide surreal experiences. Here we describe our overnight experience in this unique and wonderful area of Egypt to help you plan your visit.
Activities
The primary activities in the White and Black Deserts are sight seeing, camping, sunset and sunrise watching and sandboarding. A trip to this area requires booking a tour from Cairo (more later on How To Get There section). Both overnight and two night excursions are available. We booked an overnight trip as that was the only time we had on our short Egypt trip.
Overnight or Two Night Trip
The difference between an overnight trip and a two night trip is that a two night trip allows visitors to get deeper into the magical place. This would entail setting up camp in the White Desert for the first night. The second night campsite depends on the tour operator, according to our guide. Some would again camp at the White Desert at a different location, others may camp in the Black Desert just like what we did.
Our Overnight Itinerary
First Day – Morning
We were picked up by the tour van from our Cairo hotel at around 5:30 AM. After picking up other adventurers, we were driven to Bahariya Oasis, about five hours away. We made two intermediate stops at gas stations so that we could use the restroom and buy snacks.
Bahariya Oasis is a village at the edge of the Black Desert. We were taken into a hotel/restaurant where we met other adventurers. This is also where we had lunch (included with the tour) and were divided into groups of four. The pairing was done so that people that could speak the same language stayed together. We were paired with solo American and Belgian travelers.
We also met our 4×4 driver and desert guide, Mumu, after lunch. The 4×4 was a Toyota Land Cruiser that seats five – driver and four passengers. And we were off after our group was all acquainted.
First Day – Afternoon
After driving for about an hour from Bahariya Oasis, we made our first stop at Crystal Mountain. As the name implies, crystal rocks are abundant in the area. We took photos from a viewpoint overlooking the desert. It was a nice introduction to what was to come.
We headed deeper into the desert until we made a second stop to take photos of the rock formations that looked like mushrooms around us. We then moved on to the white rock formations and were able to see the famous chicken and mushroom and other sculpted structures. This is where we spent the most time until we had to leave so that we could set-up camp before it gets dark.
First Day – Evening
We reached our Black Desert campsite after driving for almost two hours through the White Desert and on the highway. Mumu efficiently set-up camp as the light slowly faded and darkness began to take its grip. He cooked dinner and got a campfire going while we walked around camp to watch the sunset and take photos of our surreal surroundings.
We were really surprised how this seemingly barren landscape gradually revealed its beauty. The golden sand seemed to turn orange with the waning hues of the sun. We just sat there on the desert floor and took deep breaths as our eyes scanned the delightful changing landscape.
Dinner was sumptuous traditional Egyptian cuisine of rice, fire grilled chicken, veggies and okra tagine. Mumu even roasted sweet potatoes on the campfire but we were so full that we did not even touch it.
Mumu gave us the option to sleep in a tent or under the stars. He set-up a camping tent for those that said yes. He also provided warm sleeping bags such that we needed only one layer to sleep comfortably in it. The only drawback was that it was windy and the tent poles were not sturdy. So the windward tent wall kept touching my face. We still managed to get a good night’s sleep.
Second Day
Mumu woke us up to watch the sunrise. Just like the sunset, it was beautiful and well worth the early rise.
Mumu also prepared a simple breakfast with some bread, jam, yogurt and boiled egg. Not really sumptuous compared to what we had the night before but it did not matter.
We left camp and headed to the dunes where we sandboarded. Going down the dune was fun but climbing up was not. We were done after a few runs and wipe outs.
The next stops were the hot springs. It was not a swimming spring, but more like an irrigation spring used for the date tree plantation. We just took a quick look and we were back to the hotel/restaurant at Bahariya Oasis. There we were able to take a shower before we loaded into the tour van to take us back to Cairo just before noon.
The van did not take us back to our hotel. Instead it had two drop off points – Giza and Tarhir Square in downtown Cairo. We chose to be dropped at downtown because it was nearer to the airport which we had a flight to catch on our way to Luxor.
Tips
Bathroom
Prepare yourself for no showers as water is precious in the desert. Also there are no bathrooms. It is all “naturele”. Be prepared to dig a pit and wipes handy if you need to do a #2. Luckily, the Black Desert sand is not compacted and can easily be dug with bare hands.
If you plan to take a shower back at the hotel/restaurant before heading back to Cairo, take your toiletries and towel as none are provided. The shower rooms are located away from the hotel/restaurant and are there as a convenience amenity for guests.
Cash
Bring cash to tip your guide.
Light
You can see clearly across the desert during a full moon. Bring a flashlight or headlamp if it is not in case you wake up in the middle of the night to answer the call of nature.
Luggage
Do not bring a large suitcase on this trip unless you are comfortable leaving it at the Bahariya Oasis hotel/restaurant. The 4×4 vehicle is simply packed with provisions and equipment for camping in the desert.
Picture/Videos
Make sure your picture/video taking gadgets are fully charged or bring a power bank. You do not want to miss out on capturing the moments.
Water
Although Mumu provided us with bottled drinking water, it was good that we brought our own to stay hydrated and for brushing our teeth.
How To Get There
From Cairo International Airport
At the airport, there were taxi drivers offering rides to downtown Cairo for $20 USD. Uber worked in Cairo so we hailed one. All we had to do was walk out of airport arrivals, cross the street, down the parking lot, took a left and waited at the B-5 sign which is the designated Uber pick up point.
White Desert
Booking a tour is the only practical way to see the White Desert. You would either get in an accident, be lost in the desert or get stuck if you drive yourself to get there on your own.
Where To Stay
We stayed at the Holiday Inn Cairo Maadi. The hotel is right off the Nile River and within a five minute walk to Panda Supermarket. The hotel also has a couple of restaurants at reasonable menu prices.
How To Get Around
In Cairo: Uber.
White Desert: Tour.
Expected Expenses
Uber – airport to hotel: 300 EGP (about $7 USD).
White Desert Tour: We booked directly with the tour operator and paid 9,800 EGP cash (equivalent of $200 USD) for two people. We found the tour operator’s contact information on Viator. We also contacted a 4×4 driver/guide (name Wahlid) showcased by a Youtuber that used his services. He quoted $700 USD for two people for two nights on a private tour.
Summary
Both the White and Black Deserts in Egypt are great destinations for the adventurous traveler. It takes a long time to get there but the experience is well worth the effort. You get to see a unique and beautiful landscape and at the same time share the adventure with other fellow travelers and a local guide that knows the area very well. On top of that, you get to enjoy authentic Egyptian cuisine. This is one trip that is truly memorable.