Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park
Highlights
Where to go and what to see and do in the South Island.
Time of Visit: November 2024
Duration of Visit: 30 days
Description
The South Island has many unique destinations. We were fortunate to have visited Hanmer Springs, Hokitika, Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, the Milford Road, Mount Cook, Punakaiki, Queenstown, Wanaka and Wharariki Beach, Here, we describe what to see and do at these locations so you may have a better idea on how to plan your New Zealand South Island adventure.
Hanmer Springs
Hanmer Springs is a small resort town surrounded by mountains about an hour and a half drive north of Christchurch. It is known for its hot springs and outdoor adventure activities.
One of the top attractions is the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa. There are many pools to choose from at varying degree of “hotness”. The sulphur pools were the hottest such that twenty minutes was all that we could endure. The spa also offers massages and beauty treatments, making it an ideal destination for relaxation.
Thrill-seekers can experience jet boating along the Waiau River which passes through rapids and through scenic gorges. Or they can try bungee jumping from a bridge high above the river. These activities are cheaper here than in Queenstown.
Other outdoor pursuits include quad biking, horseback riding, and even paintball in the forests around town. There are also many hiking trails in and around Hanmer Springs that range from a casual stroll to challenging treks. Whether you’re looking for adrenaline-pumping action or a peaceful escape into nature, Hanmer Springs has a range of outdoor activities for every type of visitor.
St. Arnaud
St. Arnaud is a gateway to Nelson Lakes National Park. The park offers trails suitable for every skill level. The famous Mount Robert Circuit is a challenging day hike with breathtaking views of Lake Rotoiti and surrounding mountains. Unfortunately during our visit, it rained all day the day before and clouds were hanging at the mountain top. So we were not able to do the hike. Instead, we just took a stroll at the north end of Lake Rotoiti.
Head on over to the first boat dock (jetty) if you want to see freshwater eels three to four feet long. They come out from under the dock ready to be fed once they sense the presence of people. The boat dock is where most people take their photos too with the mountains in the background.
Not far from the boat dock are a number of trails that go through the forest and by the lakeshore. Kiwis are supposed to be present in the area but we did not see one because they are nocturnal animals.
During the summer, Lake Rotoiti is a prime spot for water activities. The crystal-clear lake is ideal for kayaking, paddleboarding, and fishing, with a backdrop of native bush and snow-capped mountains. Some hardy people jump in the chilly water for a refreshing dip. The St. Arnaud Jetty at sunset offers an incredibly serene experience, where the still waters mirror the surrounding landscapes.
Wharariki beach
Wharariki Beach is located on the northern coast of the South Island. It is basically all by itself as far as famous attractions as it is still more than an hour drive from Abel Tasman National Park and even further away from the bustling towns of Nelson and Richmond. People may think twice before incorporating Wharariki Beach in their travel plans. We were happy we did as we were able to replicate one of Microsoft’s wallpaper which was shot here.
Beside the famous sea stacks, Wharariki Beach have caves that have been carved by the sea. If you are lucky, you may be able to see a sea lion or two that makes the area their home. We were fortunate enough to have an encounter with a young curious pup that swam right to our feet with its big round eyes looking at us.
The beach also has expansive sands and dunes that provide a nice photo opportunity at sunset. Though the water may be inviting for a swim on a warm day, it is not advisable. Besides the strong waves and possible existence of currents, we also saw several Portuguese Man of War that were washed to shore. These little creatures pack a nasty sting that you will remember for the rest of your life.
The beach can be accessed by a one kilometer walking track through coastal farmland and native vegetation. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the beach from the parking lot with a short uphill section.
The only thing that we wished we would have done differently is that we should have included additional days in exploring the wineries in the Marlborough region, particularly the Richmond-Nelson area as we passed a number of vineyards on our way to Wharariki. If wine is your thing, look-up “The Great Taste Trail”. This is a scenic cycle route that goes through vineyards, coastal areas, and orchards. Along the way, cyclists can stop at wineries, artisan food producers, and breweries, creating a unique blend of adventure and culinary exploration.
Punakaiki
Punakaiki is a small community on the West Coast. Punakaiki’s draw are the famous Pancake Rocks and Blowholes which are remarkable limestone formation that resemble stacked pancakes. At high tide, the blowholes shoot powerful jets of seawater through natural rock vents, creating an impressive show. Visitors can view these natural attractions from a well-maintained trail that provides several vantage points. The scenery are particularly striking at sunrise or sunset when the rocks are bathed in warm light.
Beyond Punakaiki is the Truman Track. This is about a one kilometer walk down to the beach that has a small waterfall and unusual rock formations that have been carved by the ocean.
Punakaiki was founded by people who came up to the area to construct summer shacks that are normally referred to as “Kiwi Bach”. The homes are basically a mis-mash of whatever resources they could bring or find from the area and re-purpose to build their temporary abode.
Over the years, some homes were rebuilt while others remain in their original state. Regardless, the community has not grown as it is bordered by national park land. As such, Punakaiki is not developed with only few lodging establishments that cater to visitors. Bring your own food here as places to eat are few and far in-between and could be closed depending on the season.
Hokitika
Hokitika is also on the West Coast and about a two hour drive south of Punakaiki. Unlike Punakaiki, Hokitka has all the commercial establishments that a traveler would need such as gas stations, grocery stores, lodging and restaurants.
Visitors go to Hokitika to visit the Hokitika Gorge. The gorge is about a 30 kilometer drive away from town where there are no commercial establishments. The Hokitika Gorge is a special place because of the deep blue water that runs through it. Unfortunately, the water’s color is dependent on what is happening in the mountains. During our visit, the water was grayish-green because of the recent rains. Even after three days of not raining in the lowlands, the water remained green instead of blue.
About 30 minutes from town and the gorge is Dorothy Falls. The falls is tall and sees very few visitors.
Lake Kaniere is less than a 30 minutes drive from town and provides another opportunity for relaxation. Here, visitors can take a dip in the water, have a picnic or stroll through the many tracks around the lake.
The town’s coastline also is also another place that provides opportunity to take a break from doing the touristy stuff. There is a long dirt walkway alongside Hokitika Beach where you can view the sunset while feeling the cool ocean breeze. The beach is also popular for beachcombing, including the many drift woods that have been washed ashore.
We did a sidetrip to Arthur’s Pass on our way to Hokitika from Punakaiki thinking it would be a scenic drive. All we can say, is that you can skip Arthur’s Pass as there was really nothing awe inspiring.
Glacier Country
Franz Josef and Fox Glacier are two communities on the West Coast that are in Glacier Country. The two are less than an hour ‘s drive apart. Both have glaciers that bear the same name. Both glaciers descend from the Southern Alps into temperate rainforest, offering unique opportunities to explore icy terrains amid lush greenery.
Guided glacier hikes are a popular activity here. The guided hikes allow visitors to see ice formations, crevasses, and caves while learning about the glaciers’ history and dynamics. Scenic helicopter tours are also common in Glacier Country. It provides aerial views of the glaciers, mountain peaks, and surrounding landscapes.
The Franz Joseph Glacier has significantly receded and is barely visible from the viewing area which is about five kilometers away from the glacier.
The actual Fox Glacier is better seen from the glacier viewpoint about 10 kilometers from the town proper. Less than a 10 minute drive from the viewpoint is Lake Matheson. The lake’s draw is the View of Views which provides a nice vantage point to see Mount Cook and Mount Tasman reflected on the lake’s surface on a windless day. Go early in the morning for best chances of having an undistorted reflection while the air is calm. It takes about 40 minutes to walk to the View of Views from the parking lot.
For those who have seen glaciers before like those in Patagonia, Iceland and Norway, you may find the glaciers in Glacier Country underwhelming. You would not be missing much if you skip these destinations if you are short on time.
Lake Tekapo
Not much to say about Lake Tekapo except that it should not be missed. Its blue water is mesmerizing and well complimented by the colorful wildflowers found along its Southern shores.
Wanaka
If there is one place that we would come back to in New Zealand, it would either be Wanaka or Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park in the South Island. Wanaka is a fabulous destination. The town is blessed with the blue colored Lake Wanaka which provides plenty of opportunities for relaxation and recreation such as paddle boarding and kayaking.
The town center is located near the lakeshore. There are plenty of shops and restaurants to cater to visitors’ needs. And after a big meal, you can walk it off by strolling down the tree lined lakeshore promenade which has plenty of benches and parking.
Head over to the surrounding mountains if you are looking for something more adventurous. There are trails ranging from short walks to challenging climbs. The Roy’s Peak Track is a challenging hike but provides awesome views of Lake Wanaka and the surrounding mountains. Rocky Mountain Summit Track also provides wonderful views but is much easier than Roys Peak. For a more family-friendly option, the Mount Iron Track offers a relatively easy hike with rewarding vistas.
Queenstown
Often called the adventure capital of New Zealand, Queenstown offers an unparalleled range of outdoor activities set against a backdrop of stunning mountains and the blue waters of Lake Wakatipu. There is bungee jumping from the Kawarau Bridge and jet boating on the Shotover River. Other thrilling activities include skydiving and paragliding from Coronet Peak, both providing spectacular views of the region’s natural beauty.
If heart pounding activities is not your style, there are scenic hiking and biking trails and lake activities. The Queenstown Hill Time Walk is a popular hike that rewards visitors with panoramic views of the Remarkables mountain range and the lake. Cycling enthusiasts can explore the Queenstown Trail, a network of paths that weave through vineyards, historic towns, and picturesque countryside. Lake Wakatipu itself is perfect for kayaking, paddle boarding, or taking a tranquil cruise to enjoy the serene surroundings.
The Remarkables is a ski resort about 30 minutes drive from Queenstown. You will find Lake Alta here, a small alpine lake surrounded by mountains. Bring your winter toys if you go to the Remarkables even in the summer as it may have holdover snow.
For us, our favorite was Bob’s Cove and the scenic drive north to the small community of Glenorchy. The view from Bob’s Cove Viewpoint at the top of the hill was simply priceless while the drive to Glenorchy is stunning.
Being a popular destination, Queenstown is crowded and busy. Traffic can move slowly especially during the busy part of the day. Lodging and paid activities are also more expensive here. Finding a parking place can also be challenging.
Milford Road
Milford Road connects the small town of Te Anau and Milford Sound. This road is over 100 kilomters long and takes at least two hours to travel. There are many outdoor activities (too many) that can be enjoyed along Milford Road as it cuts through Fjordland National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The first stop is usually Mirror Lakes. Its calm waters perfectly reflect the surrounding mountains on a still day. Try to visit Mirror Lakes in the morning before the wind picks up and ruffle the water’s surface.
Hiking enthusiasts will find plenty of options, including parts of the renowned Routeburn and Kepler Tracks, as well as shorter trails like the Key Summit Track. We did the three hour round trip Key Summit Track and ended up spending five hours because it was so beautiful at the summit. The trail was not difficult either.
Another hike would be Lake Marian which also takes three hours to complete. The trail is mostly rocky, wet and could be slippery. But the destination is well worth it according to our hotel receptionist as the lake is surrounded by snow capped mountains even in the summer. We should have done this hike instead of doing the Milford Sound cruise.
Further down the road is Monkey Creek which provides awesome mountain backdrop for a photoshoot. From Monkey Creek to Milford Sound, you will likely make several stops to snap pictures. The mountain scenery rivals that of the Patagonia in South America. And if you are lucky, you may have a close encounter with a kea bird like we did.
At Milford Sound, at lot of visitors take the boat cruise (around $100 USD for 1.75 hrs). To be honest, we would just encourage you to save your money as we did not find anything exciting during our mid-day cruise even on a sunny day.
If you do decide on a cruise, we think the smaller boats would be better as there would be more room in the open roof deck to take photos. There are five cruise boat companies at Milford Sound. We cruised with Cruise Milford whose boat only had a main deck and a rooftop deck. It carried about 50 people which was the right size. The bigger cruise boats have two decks which means more people can cram onto its roof deck.
Winery Towns in Central Otago District
Central Otago’s natural beauty features rugged mountains, expansive plains, and winding rivers, making it a haven for adventurers and nature lovers. Being in the middle of the country, the region receives less rainfall than the coast because most of the surrounding mountains. As such, the climate is drier and suitable for vineyards. Enjoy wine tours at renowned vineyards, particularly those producing world-class Pinot Noir
We passed by the town of Alexandra on our way to spend a night in Cromwell. We saw several winery signs and vineyards along the road. Our host confirmed that that indeed there are wineries in Central Otago. Other communities that have wineries are Bannockburn and Gibbston.
If wineries are not your thing, Central Otago has plenty of outdoor opportunities. One of the most popular activities is exploring the Otago Central Rail Trail, a 152-kilometer cycling and walking path that winds through picturesque farmland, historic gold mining towns, and breathtaking gorges. This trail is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in the area’s rich history and serene scenery.
For water enthusiasts, the region offers exciting opportunities for jet boating, kayaking, and fishing. The Clutha River, one of New Zealand’s longest rivers, is a hotspot for these activities, with its clear waters and stunning surroundings. Lake Dunstan, located near Cromwell, is another favorite for swimming, paddleboarding, and picnicking along its shores. Anglers will appreciate the abundance of trout and salmon in the area’s lakes and rivers, making it a top destination for fishing.
If you choose just to chill, these towns have the right number of shops and restaurants. Combined with local farmers’ markets and charming cafes, this culinary experience adds another layer to the outdoor fun, making Central Otago a well-rounded destination for relaxation and exploration. The area is not overrun by tourists either, giving you the chance to feel like a local by taking easy strolls whether at a local park or in the shopping district..
Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park
Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park is home to New Zealand’s highest mountain. The alpine scenery is stunning and offers a wealth of outdoor activities amidst towering peaks and glaciers.
Hiking is one of the most popular activities in the park. The Hooker Valley Track provides a relatively easy walk with incredible views of glaciers, suspension bridges, and the iconic Mount Cook. More advanced hikers can tackle the challenging Mueller Hut Route, which rewards visitors with panoramic vistas of the Southern Alps and the surrounding valleys.
Equally jaw dropping is the close to hour long drive to the park alongside the turquiose colored water of Lake Pukaki. Its water appears to be a shade more blue than Lake Tekapo.
Make your accommodation reservations in the park as early as possible so you can maximize your time. We had to stay in the town of Twizel as none were available about a month before our intended stay. So we had to spend a couple of hours a day to make the drive to and from the park. Although in fairness, the drive was enjoyable also.
Summary
New Zealand’s South Island is just full of scenic places. There is no shortage of places to see and outdoor activities to do.
Hanmer Springs and Queenstown have a lot to offer for adreneline junkies like jetboating and bungee jumping. Punakaiki’s unique pancake rock formations are like no other we have seen.
Hokitika Gorge and its colorful river is off the beaten path but well worth the drive. Seeing glacial fed almost cyan colored rivers and lakes are mesmerizing. And if you have the legs, tackling some of the scenic tracks, especially in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park can be exhilarating and rewarding. Don’t forget about Wanaka, a great destination to enjoy outdoor activities with lesser crowd.
Last, do not overlook the sprinkling of wineries, especially in the Malborough and Central Otago regions. You get to sampe good Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc wines as well as great sceneries.
No matter what you are looking for or interest, we are fairly certain you will find it in the South Island of New Zealand.