Image: Hot air balloons at sunrise at the town of Goreme.
Highlights:
– Useful information to successfully plan your visit to Cappadocia, Turkey.
Time of Visit: October 2025
Duration of Visit: One night in Aksaray, four nights in Ortahisar
Description
Cappadocia is a region in Central Turkey that is famous for its extraordinary, otherworldly landscapes and rich history. This unique terrain was formed millions of years ago by ancient volcanic eruptions that covered the area in soft ash, which then solidified into a soft, porous rock called tuff. Over millennia, wind and water erosion sculpted the rock into the iconic, towering “fairy chimneys,” cone-shaped pillars, and honeycombed hills that define the area’s surreal “moonscape” appearance. Its breathtaking natural beauty attracts millions of visitors annually. It is truly a bucket list destination.
Beyond its captivating geology, Cappadocia boasts a deep and fascinating human history rooted in the landscape. Ancient inhabitants discovered that the soft tuff was easily carvable that led them to create extensive cave dwellings, churches, and monasteries within the rock formations. The early Christians fleeing persecution, expanded the existing cave systems into complex, multi-level underground cities like Derinkuyu, complete with ventilation systems and chapels. Today, visitors can explore these intricate historical sites, such as the Göreme Open Air Museum with its well-preserved frescoes, or even stay in modern cave hotels, immersing themselves in a unique blend of natural wonder and ancient human ingenuity.
The center of all tourist activities within the Cappadocia region is undoubtedly the small town of Goreme. This small town sits squarely in the middle of many geological formations and archeological sites. Many tour companies operate here and there is no shortage of cave hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops.
Activities
There are a myriad of things to do and places to see in Cappadocia. Around the town of Goreme alone, there are several activities to easily fill a week. There are several cultural and natural attractions to choose from. Here we describe what we were able to do during our stay in Cappadocia.
Prior To Cappadocia
Sultanhani
Our Cappadocia adventure began by visiting the caravanserai in the town of Sultanhani, about an hour West of Aksaray and less than two hours from Goreme. A caravanserai (or caravansary) was a roadside inn or roadside lodging common along the Silk Road during ancient times. It provided rest, shelter, and security for travelers, merchants, and their animals on long journeys. It also functioned as a vital hub for trade, cultural exchange, and a safe haven from harsh conditions and bandits.
Sultanhani’s caravanserai is the largest and well preserved in Turkey. It is a magnificent 13th-century enclosed complex made mainly of marbles and limestones. It showcases Seljuk stone masonry with impressive, highly decorated entrance portals, vaulted structures, detailed carvings and geometric patterns. The caravanserai has long relinquished its original function and now serves as a tourist attraction and historical site.
We saw a few tourist operators offering day trips to Sultanhani and Lake Tuz (more later).
Selime and Ilhara Valley
After Sultanhani and spending the night in the City of Aksaray, we made a brief stop at Selime and Ilhara Valley the following day before heading to Goreme and Ortihisar. It is in Selime that we first saw fairy chimneys, conical rock formations and cave dwellings.
Selime contains the Selime Monastery which is the largest rock-cut monastery complex. It is a smaller version of the Goreme Open Air Museum according to a local guide that wanted us to hire him. We were not aware of Selime until we passed by the park on our way to Ilhara Valley. We ended up not going into the monastery but explored the nearby rock formations and cave dwellings that were accessible from the dirt road.
Initially, we were going to explore Ilhara Valley but decided not to when we got there. Primarily, we just did not feel like hiking down to the valley and hiking back up. In the past, we found it more satisfying to be hiking above the canyon instead of being in the canyon.
At Goreme/Ortihisar
Day One: Hot Air Balloon, Pasabaglar and Zelve Archeological Site
Hot Air Balloon
A sunrise hot air balloon ride in Cappadocia is a bucket list item. Being up in the air to greet the sun while looking at the sculptured sandstones and valleys below is like no other. The different shades of yellow, orange and red in the horizon makes the activity really memorable.
We were picked up from our accommodation at around 5 AM (it would be earlier in the summer as the sun rises earlier). The next hour was spent picking up other people. We arrived at the launch site as the darkness began to give way to the light. There were balloons all around us at different launch stages.
The balloon basket holds 28 passengers plus two balloon pilots. The basket is divided into 2 x 4 compartments plus a middle compartment for the pilots, burners and fuel tanks. The four corner compartments hold four people each for a total of 16 people. The four inner compartments are smaller and hold three people for a total of 12 people.
It was free for all when the signal was given to get in the basket. If you have short legs, you may have to wait for the portable ladder to come to you to be able to get in as the baskets are about chest high. It would be best if you can get into one of the corner compartments.
Our pilot was able to rotate the balloon in the air so that everybody had the opportunity to have a 360 view and face the sunrise. The ride lasted about an hour. We had champagne after we landed before being taken back to our individual accommodations.
Pasabaglar and Zelve Archeological Site
One ticket gains entry to both Pasabaglar and Zelve Archeological Site. The sites are about one kilometer apart.
Pasabaglar has the fairy chimneys which are eroded rock formations that look like mushrooms. Zelve Archeological Site is a collection of cave dwellings carved inside conical shaped hills and into the mountain side.
Pasabaglar is not a very large site. You can probably walk the entire park in less than an hour. But the fairy chimneys draw you to stay longer and explore. In our opinion, the best photos of the fairy chimneys are taken from a higher elevation. There are some hills in the park that will provide this vantage point.
Zelve Archeological Site is about the same area as Pasabaglar but has totally different rock formations. The rocks in Cappadocia are primarily soft volcanic tuff (ash). This allowed the ancient inhabitants to carve out homes, churches, monasteries and give rise to communities. You will be tackling some steps to roam around Zelve. Expect to spend at least a couple of hours.
Day Two: Derinkuyu Underground City, Canyon Sightseeing
Derinkuyu Underground City
Derinkuyu Underground City is about an hour drive from the town of Goreme. It claims to be the largest underground city in the world.
We had mixed feelings about this particular activity. Though the site was interesting even without a guide, the experience was less than desirable. Narrow and low headroom passageways were common. Some you have to walk on stairsteps while hunched down which could be challenging to some people. Then add the crowd factor in tight spaces and we were left asking the question “Why did we do that?” It was a good thing that we did not buy the Cappadocia Museum Pass as we would not have any inclination in visiting the other two underground sites included with the pass.
Landscape Sightseeing
On our return drive from Derinkuyu to the town of Urgup, we pulled on the roadside and spent about a couple of hours admiring a nice shallow canyon with rock formations. We had the place all to ourselves which made up for the unpleasant experience at Derinkuyu.
There are probably other similar canyons in Cappadocia that are just waiting to be explored. Fencing is not common here and no trespassing signs are uncommon.
Urgup Saturday Market
Saturday markets are common in Turkey. The town of Urgup, about 10 minutes drive away from Goreme holds one. Fresh fruits and vegetables, fabrics and clothing and other merchandise can be found. Bring cash.
Day Three: Sunrise/Sunset Point, Love Valley and Goreme Open Air Museum
Sunrise/Sunset Point
Sunrise/Sunset Point is in the town of Goreme. We went there to watch the hot air balloons at sunrise. It is also a nice place to see the town at dawn or night.
Love Valley and Love Valley Lookout
Love Valley gets its name because of the rock formations that resemble a particular part of the male anatomy. You will not find any street signs pointing to Love Valley. However, Google Maps shows the Love Valley Trail which is near the entry road. Just follow this dirt road until you encounter the sign that indicates only local vehicles are allowed. From there, it is a short 10-15 minute walk to the rock formations.
As the name implies, the Love Valley Lookout sits above the valley. Usually, the area is where the hot air balloons land. The area was very busy about a couple of hours past sunrise as hot air balloon baskets were being hauled away. Walking around the edge of the valley lookout provides a different perspective of the rock formations.
Goreme Open Air Museum and Dark Church
The Goreme Open Air Museum is not quite the same as the Zelve Archeological Site. Though the open air museum contains several churches that have been carved into the mountain, it does not have the triangular rock formations.
The churches vary in size. Some are adorned with colorful frescoes inside. Unfortunately, most do not allow picture taking inside. The Dark Church contains the most colorful and well preserved frescoes. The Dark Church is located within the open air museum and requires purchasing a separate entry ticket.
Just outside the open air museum turnstiles is the Tokali (Buckle) Church. The church was undergoing restorations but is free to the public. Inside the church were colorful frescoes as well but not as colorful as inside the Dark Church.
Day Four: Lake Tuz
We left Cappadocia after our fourth night and headed to the City of Konya. We made a detour to see Lake Tuz (or Salt Lake) which is about a couple of hours drive away from Goreme. What drew us to Lake Tuz was the shallow water on top of the salt bed that produced a mirror effect. Unfortunately, it was cloudy during our visit so we did not have the blue sky reflecting on the lake’s surface.
As mentioned earlier, we saw tour operators operating day trips to Sultanhani and Lake Tuz.
How To Get There
We had a rental car and drove ourselves from Isparta to Aksaray and then to Ortihisar.
Goreme has a transit station for regional buses. The Obilet app is the most common transportation app used in Turkey.
The nearest airport to Goreme is in Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (code NAV) about 40 kilometers away.
Where To Stay
Aksaray
We stayed at the Nenesa Hotel which is right off the main street lined with shops and restaurants.
Ortahisar
Parking was a premium in Goreme so we stayed at an Airbnb in Ortahisar which is less than a 10 minute drive. Ortihisar is much quieter than Goreme. Stay in Goreme if you do not have a rental car. Urgup is also another town that has plenty of restaurants and stores.
How To Get Around
Having our own rental car gave us the freedom to get around on our own schedule. As mentioned earlier, there are tour companies that offer trips to the different tourist destinations in Cappadocia. There are also taxis and ATV rentals in Goreme.
Expected Expenses
Museum Pass
Consider purchasing a Museum Pass if you plan on seeing a number of historical and cultural sites in Turkey. There are several passes to choose from. There is the Turkey Pass which is valid in all the sites in Turkey for 15 days. There are also the Mediterranean, Aegean and Cappadocia Passes which are area dependent.
The Cappadocia Museum Pass saves you 20 Euros per person if you intend to visit all the sites. We did not get this pass because we decided only to see the Goreme Open Air Museum, Derinkuyu Underground City and the Pasabaglar/Zelve Archeological Site. According to ChatGPT, the Goreme Open AIr Museum is the better option compared to the Selime Cathedral while Derinkuyu is the largest amongst the three underground cities (though we recommend skipping it).
Activity Specific Costs
Costs are in TRY and per person unless noted otherwise. Even though some are quoted in Euros, amounts charged are in TRY based on the site’s conversion rate. Credit cards are normally accepted, unless noted otherwise.
Sultanhani caravanserai: Entry fee – 100 (cash only), parking – free
Selime/Ilhara Valley: Entry fee – 15 Euros, parking – 50 (at Ilhara Valley, cash only)
Hot Air Balloon: 95 Euros. One Youtuber said they paid $265 when they visited in the summer. It pays to shop around.
Pasabaglar/Zelve Archaeological Site: Entry fee – 12 Euros, parking – free
Derinkuyu Underground City: Entry Fee – 13 Euros, parking – 50 (cash only)
Sunrise/Sunset Point: Entry fee – 30
Love Valley Viewpoint: Entry Fee – 50 per vehicle (cash only)
Goreme Open Air Museum: Entry Fee – 20 Euros
Dark Museum: Entry Fee – 6 Euros
Lake Tuz – free entry, free parking
Summary
Cappadocia is a bucket list item which makes it a popular tourist destination. The volcanic tuff created a unique landscape from various rock formations including the fairy chimneys and conical rocks that were naturally sculptured by the forces of erosion over a long period of time.
Besides the natural wonder, Cappadocia displays deep history that features rock-cut churches with Byzantine frescoes, ancient cave dwellings, and vast underground cities enough to be designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Cappadocia makes it a versatile destination for adventure, relaxation, and cultural immersion. It appeals to a wide range of people from casual travelers and history buffs. There is no shortage of things to do, activities to experience and places to see in Cappadocia to provide a memorable experience.